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Tomcat Rat Wood Traps
Traditional wood-base rat traps — the simple, cheap, no-poison option that has worked for a century.
Details
A wooden snap trap is about as basic as pest control gets, and it remains one of the most effective tools available for rats. The spring kills quickly, there is nothing toxic in the building, no poisoned carcass for a barn cat or an owl to find, and you know with certainty what you have caught — which is more than a bait station can tell you. Rats need the heavier rat-sized trap, not a mouse trap, and they need to be set with some thought. Place traps perpendicular to a wall with the trigger end toward the runway, right on the paths rats are already using. Look for greasy rub marks along walls, droppings, burrow openings and worn trails through grass, and set two or three traps close together on a good run rather than scattering single traps around a building. The step most people skip is pre-baiting. Rats are genuinely suspicious of anything new in their environment, and a trap set the first night often sits untouched while the rat walks around it. Leave traps baited but unset for two or three nights until the bait is being taken confidently, then set them. That one habit is the difference between catching rats and concluding they are too clever for traps. Bait with something aromatic and sticky — peanut butter, bacon, dried fruit — worked into the trigger so it cannot be carried away. Wooden traps are cheap enough to treat as disposable, which many people prefer to re-setting a used one. The springs are strong enough to hurt a finger badly, so set them carefully and place them where children, dogs and cats cannot reach — behind appliances, or inside a box with a rat-sized entry. Check daily, wear gloves to dispose of catches, and wash your hands afterward.
